My Next Great Adventure in Afghanistan: Life as a Civilian Woman Peacebuilder in an Overwhelmingly Male Military War Zone
Friday, March 31, 2006
I Have A Friend!
So yes, it’s true. After nearly 6 months in Kyrgyzstan, it seems I have finally made a friend who is not another volunteer, a family member, or a student! Early in January I was walking to the post office when a girl who looked about my age said to me in English, “Hello Liza.” I had never seen her before, so I had no idea how she knew who I was; it turns out her sister is one of my 10th grade students, and her mom is the post office lady! She’s currently studying English at the university, and I immediately sensed we could be friends.
But a month passed and I didn’t see her again. Then one day, as I was taking a walk in between classes, there she was walking down the street again! This time I invited myself to her house, and we had a great time talking and having tea. I again felt that this was someone I could actually be friends with. She is 20 years old and I found out she’s been married for 6 months! She lives with her husband, his younger brother (who also happens to be in one of my 6th grade classes) and her husband’s grandparents. I was pleased that now I knew where she lived, so I could find her again and be more proactive about becoming friends.
Unfortunately, however, nearly another month passed during which I just never got myself over to her house. Then one Monday after my classes, I decided enough was enough, and I dropped by her house. She was so excited to see me, and said she had wanted to come visit me, but she just couldn’t find the time, as daughter-in-laws in Kyrgyzstan are expected to do much of the work around the house. But it was ok, because this time, I had a plan: I asked her if I could come over more regularly, and I would help her with English and she could help me start learning Russian. She responded with more enthusiasm than I could have expected, saying, “I want you to come every day!”
So for the past month or so, I have been visiting Gulmira not every day, but many. Four days a week after my classes I go to her house; 2 days we study English and 2 days Russian (unfortunately, I am not a very good student!). It’s great! And quite hilarious. Whatever language we are studying, they usually always develop into an amusing mixture of Kyrgyz, Russian, and English—sometimes all in one sentence! One time, I went to her house on a weekend and we made pizza together, which was so much fun! Her grandfather-in-law loved it and told me I should make it every day :-). Last week there was a holiday and they invited me to their celebration; I wore a long dress and a headscarf and I was the hit! We have a lot of fun together. I love having a friend, having somewhere to go besides school and home, somewhere I am warmly welcomed, and the feeling of being slightly more incorporated into my community. Gulmira has definitely brightened my life, and I think I have brightened hers. Yay for friends!
But a month passed and I didn’t see her again. Then one day, as I was taking a walk in between classes, there she was walking down the street again! This time I invited myself to her house, and we had a great time talking and having tea. I again felt that this was someone I could actually be friends with. She is 20 years old and I found out she’s been married for 6 months! She lives with her husband, his younger brother (who also happens to be in one of my 6th grade classes) and her husband’s grandparents. I was pleased that now I knew where she lived, so I could find her again and be more proactive about becoming friends.
Unfortunately, however, nearly another month passed during which I just never got myself over to her house. Then one Monday after my classes, I decided enough was enough, and I dropped by her house. She was so excited to see me, and said she had wanted to come visit me, but she just couldn’t find the time, as daughter-in-laws in Kyrgyzstan are expected to do much of the work around the house. But it was ok, because this time, I had a plan: I asked her if I could come over more regularly, and I would help her with English and she could help me start learning Russian. She responded with more enthusiasm than I could have expected, saying, “I want you to come every day!”
So for the past month or so, I have been visiting Gulmira not every day, but many. Four days a week after my classes I go to her house; 2 days we study English and 2 days Russian (unfortunately, I am not a very good student!). It’s great! And quite hilarious. Whatever language we are studying, they usually always develop into an amusing mixture of Kyrgyz, Russian, and English—sometimes all in one sentence! One time, I went to her house on a weekend and we made pizza together, which was so much fun! Her grandfather-in-law loved it and told me I should make it every day :-). Last week there was a holiday and they invited me to their celebration; I wore a long dress and a headscarf and I was the hit! We have a lot of fun together. I love having a friend, having somewhere to go besides school and home, somewhere I am warmly welcomed, and the feeling of being slightly more incorporated into my community. Gulmira has definitely brightened my life, and I think I have brightened hers. Yay for friends!
Party at Gulmira's
Thursday, March 23, 2006
In-Service Training (IST)
If you hadn’t bathed in 10 days and hadn’t had a real shower in 3 months, and arrived at a hotel where one was available, how long would it take you to strip down and jump in? Well, my sense of normalcy on these things is completely messed up by now. We arrived at the Issik-Kul Hotel (Issik Kul literally translates “hot lake”) on the afternoon of Thursday, March 9th, and I didn’t actually get myself into the shower until Friday night. Ha! However, despite my delayed reaction, having three real showers in one week was FABULOUS! :-). I think I officially ridded myself of all the accumulated dead skin, and effectively attacked the forest that had built up on my legs after 5 months of not shaving. Now, isn’t this a pleasant way to start off this post?
Let me backtrack and explain a little… Last week all the K-13s (volunteers who arrived at the same time as me; we are the 13th group of PCVs in Kyrgyzstan, thus, the name “K-13”) traveled to Bishkek (the capitol) for a week of training, titled “In-Service Training” or IST. It was a great time! In addition to the aforementioned shower situation, we also had flushing toilets and running hot water! Plumbing is wonderful!
I was also able to partake of some great food. Being the capitol, Bishkek is the home of many treasures, one of which is a bona fide American cafĂ©! So the first thing I did upon arrival on Thursday was NOT, as we know, taking a shower, but eating onion rings and a grilled chicken club sandwich—my first sandwich in 6 months! It was heavenly. Other meals in Bishkek included real pizza, a chicken burrito, potato gnocchi, a huge chocolate brownie, and chocolate chip cookies. In addition to the eating out, we also found the hotel food to be spectacular. We’d stayed in this hotel a few times before, and we all found ourselves asking each other, “Was the food this good last time we were here??” The joke was that we’d all lost about 15 pounds over the last three months at site, and then gained 10 at IST. I definitely feasted, and unashamedly. To top it all off, Bishkek is also the home to actual SUPERMARKETS! I made several trips, stocking up on some groceries you can’t find in Talas. The prize for most notable purchase is a close one between peanut butter and cocoa puffs…
It was also fun to meet up with all the other volunteers and catch up with each other after 3 months of separation. It was great to exchange stories, compare situations, and share teaching tips. In addition to the volunteers, I was also able to meet up with some other Americans in Bishkek, going out to dinner and even being invited to a home-cooked meal (the source of the chocolate chip cookies). These connections proved to be the best overall part of my week in Bishkek. It was so fun and encouraging to sit around a dinner table chatting about culture, language, struggles, and victories with people who have been living here for 8 years. What a blessing!
Other highlights: staying out past dark, talking to Steve on an internet phone, chatting with Kristen over instant messenger, going to church, watching DVDs at the hotel, having awesome Kyrgyz language classes, a seller at the bazaar asking me if I was Turkish (Kyrgyz and Turkish languages are similar) and telling me I spoke Kyrgyz very well!
It was a packed week, but a great one. The change of pace and scenery was nice, and now it’s nice to be back “home” in Talas. And nice to know Bishkek is always there when I need a club sandwich…
Let me backtrack and explain a little… Last week all the K-13s (volunteers who arrived at the same time as me; we are the 13th group of PCVs in Kyrgyzstan, thus, the name “K-13”) traveled to Bishkek (the capitol) for a week of training, titled “In-Service Training” or IST. It was a great time! In addition to the aforementioned shower situation, we also had flushing toilets and running hot water! Plumbing is wonderful!
I was also able to partake of some great food. Being the capitol, Bishkek is the home of many treasures, one of which is a bona fide American cafĂ©! So the first thing I did upon arrival on Thursday was NOT, as we know, taking a shower, but eating onion rings and a grilled chicken club sandwich—my first sandwich in 6 months! It was heavenly. Other meals in Bishkek included real pizza, a chicken burrito, potato gnocchi, a huge chocolate brownie, and chocolate chip cookies. In addition to the eating out, we also found the hotel food to be spectacular. We’d stayed in this hotel a few times before, and we all found ourselves asking each other, “Was the food this good last time we were here??” The joke was that we’d all lost about 15 pounds over the last three months at site, and then gained 10 at IST. I definitely feasted, and unashamedly. To top it all off, Bishkek is also the home to actual SUPERMARKETS! I made several trips, stocking up on some groceries you can’t find in Talas. The prize for most notable purchase is a close one between peanut butter and cocoa puffs…
It was also fun to meet up with all the other volunteers and catch up with each other after 3 months of separation. It was great to exchange stories, compare situations, and share teaching tips. In addition to the volunteers, I was also able to meet up with some other Americans in Bishkek, going out to dinner and even being invited to a home-cooked meal (the source of the chocolate chip cookies). These connections proved to be the best overall part of my week in Bishkek. It was so fun and encouraging to sit around a dinner table chatting about culture, language, struggles, and victories with people who have been living here for 8 years. What a blessing!
Other highlights: staying out past dark, talking to Steve on an internet phone, chatting with Kristen over instant messenger, going to church, watching DVDs at the hotel, having awesome Kyrgyz language classes, a seller at the bazaar asking me if I was Turkish (Kyrgyz and Turkish languages are similar) and telling me I spoke Kyrgyz very well!
It was a packed week, but a great one. The change of pace and scenery was nice, and now it’s nice to be back “home” in Talas. And nice to know Bishkek is always there when I need a club sandwich…
Wednesday, March 01, 2006
March 1st--Spring??
I've been experimenting lately with wearing fewer layers, but today, for the first time, I went to the city without any long-underwear, wool socks, down jacket, scarf, hat, gloves, or snow boots! It was a gamble, but I think it paid-off, as I am completely comfortable, and not sweaty in the sun under all those unnecessary layers. Could this really be spring? I'm not making any bets yet that my down jacket can go in a box until next winter, but for now, it sure does feel nice!
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